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CHAPTER 4 THE EASTERN PART OF TYROL: The districts of Schwaz, Kufstein and Kitzbühel

INTRODUCTION

TIROL

So much to see – so much to do

Tyrol – land in the mountains in the heart of Europe, farming region, center for tourism, with countless sport and leisure opportunities in summer and wintertime, a transit state that has been of major historic significance for centuries – a stunning and multi-faceted region. Visitors may explore not only breathtaking nature, but also medieval towns, idyllic mountain villages, castles, monasteries, churches and chapels. Those who want to get to know this extraordinary region better must also familiarize themselves with its past.

During the course of its history, Tyrol has witnessed times of wealth and prosperity, but also of hardship and adversity. The natural resources in Schwaz and other areas of the region, alongside the salt mining in Hall, have had a particularly positive influence on the development of Tyrol. Furthermore, the traffic over the mountain passes and through the major valleys was an important source of income and resulted not least in the emergence of many settlements. However, its history has also been marked by the plague, natural disasters and countless wars. Furthermore, when taking in the many stunning sights of Tyrol one must not forget the struggle between mankind and nature. The harsh climate and poor soil conditions combined with inhumane legal regulations, have often left its inhabitants struggling to survive. Nonetheless, nature has also inspired the people. Tyrol is and has been home to countless artists, a number of whom have left their traces in the region, while others were forced to leave the area to pursue their passions elsewhere. One only need think of Jakob Prandtauer from Stanz near Landeck, who built Stift Melk (Melk Abbey) in Lower Austria for example.

Anyone who lives in Tyrol often stops noticing the beauties of the land. However, there are often many sights worth seeing in one’s very own hometown. A walk around the nearby area or slightly further afield, or a day trip to another part of the region can be a true experience. Take time out and go on a tranquil walk through the forest in autumn, visit a castle or take a pleasant stroll around one of the medieval towns. Make your trip a special experience!

This travel guide is written for both residents and visitors to Tyrol. It intends to give a concise yet thorough introduction to all the areas of Tyrol. Particularly worthy sights are highlighted and described in greater detail. Importance has been placed on embedding this in the history of the region: The aim is to present relationships and connections, to underline deeper background knowledge. The guide also contains tips for leisure activities, as well as important addresses, phone numbers and internet references to aid the reader.

Looking at Innsbruck – in the background the Serles, one of the famous mountains near the city

I was born and raised in this region. Tyrol is my home. A place that I love and am proud of. I hope that this travel guide will prove a welcome companion for all those who wish to get to know Tyrol and share my passion for this land.

CHAPTER 1

AN OUTLINE OF TYROL

History, art, culture and much more

GEOGRAPHY

State borders: 1042 km (of which with Germany 343 km, Italy 303 km, Switzerland 59 km)

State coat of arms: Red eagle with golden crown and green garland behind the head

Districts (9): Innsbruck, Innsbruck-Land, Imst, Kitzbühel, Kufstein, Landeck, Reutte, Schwaz, Lienz (East Tyrol)

Largest towns and municipalities: Innsbruck (132,493), Kufstein (19,223), Telfs (15,747), Hall (13,897), Schwaz (13,728), Wörgl (13,811), Lienz in East Tyrol (11,844), Imst (10,504), Rum (9190), St. Johann (9428)

CLIMATE

Tyrol is situated in an area with a moderate central European climate. The Alps form a climatic divide between central Europe with its moderate climate, and the sub-tropical Mediterranean region. The West-East range holds back the cooler air masses coming from the north and the warmer air originating from the south as a general rule.

The western and northern areas of the state are frequently subject to Atlantic influences, while the east has a more continental climate and the southern region (South and East Tyrol) has Mediterranean characteristics. A phenomenon that is particular to the alpine area is the foehn, a warm, dry down-slope wind that frequently occurs on the leeward side of the mountains. Wind speeds of up to 200 km/h can arise. This accelerates the snow thawing in winter and spring.

The snow line in the north sits at 2400–2600 m, in the central Alps at 2800–3200 m. Summers are relatively damp with maximum temperatures around 30° C, while autumn tends to be drier with good weather, and winter is snowy at higher altitudes. However, significant local differences occur.

Climate change has resulted in rapid glacial melting in recent decades. The average monthly temperatures in Tyrol are -2° C in January, 0° C in February, 5° C in March, 8° C in April, 13° C in May, 16° C in June, 18° C in July and August, 14° C in September, 9° C in October, 3° C in November and -1° C in December.

ART

Thanks to its central location in the Alps, Tyrol has always served as a transit region and has therefore always been open to exchanges with the southern (Italian) and northern (German, Dutch and Bohemian) cultural areas. In the late Gothic and Baroque periods, the German influence on Tyrolean art was particularly strong; in the Renaissance, the Italian influence prevailed. Tyrolean artists studied abroad and combined foreign influence with their local style.

Three epochs left behind intensive traces in North Tyrol: the Gothic, Baroque and Historicism periods. Today, countless village churches and chapels still attest to the relative prosperity of the region in those times. However, the small number of large monasteries (Wilten, Stams and Fiecht) did not have a particularly significant influence on the artistic landscape.

From 1420, important influences came from the Innsbruck Imperial Court – and in particular from the art-loving rulers Emperor Maximilian I, Archduke Ferdinand II, Archduke Maximilian III, and Archduke Leopold V and his two sons. Settlements in Tyrol in pre-Roman times are readily traceable thanks to the numerous archeological finds in the region. In contrast, the Romans themselves left very little trace. Works of art from the Romanesque period (around 1000–1300) are also rare in North and East Tyrol. As a consequence of increased travel through the region and the growing mining industry in the 15th and 16th centuries, the Gothic period (circa 1300–1520) is heavily represented in Tyrol. Italian influences in Tyrol originate in particular from the Renaissance period (from roughly 1520), largely as a transitional style. Much like the Gothic period, the Baroque era (around 1610–1770) with the late part of the Rococo period spawned countless artworks. During the 19th century numerous churches were constructed in, or converted to the Historicism style in the Tyrolean Oberland in particular. Their interior design is referred to as the Nazarene style. The turn of the 20th century witnessed the arrival of the Art Nouveau and Heimat style movements. The period between the two world wars saw construction in the sober New Objectivity style. The relocation of the government seat from Merano to Innsbruck in 1420 and the start of mining for silver and copper in Schwaz and other Tyrolean regions around that time brought about a cultural heyday. This was the Gothic period. The mediaeval towns of Kufstein, Kitzbühel, Rattenberg, Hall in Tyrol and Innsbruck are examples of the Inn-Salzach Style. The towns were home to prosperous citizens, the Innsbruck Imperial Court was a hub for artists. Various Bauhütten (associations of tradesmen) constructed large and richly furnished churches, which were the pride of local citizens alongside the town halls and town houses. Significant Gothic buildings in Tyrol include the parish churches in Hall, Schwaz, Kitzbühel, Imst, Seefeld and St. Leonhard near Kundl. Castles had been built to protect the land back in the Romanesque period, and these were subsequently converted during the Gothic era. Noteworthy examples include Friedberg Castle near Volders, Petersberg Castle and Laudegg Castle in the Oberinntal Valley, as well as Hasegg Castle in Hall and Matzen Castle near Brixlegg. Many of these only remain as ruins today, for example the once-mighty castles in Thaur near Innsbruck and Kropfsberg castle on the route out of the Zillertal valley. Michael Pacher (around 1435–1498) and Marx Reichlich (1460–1520), both from South Tyrol, and Jörg Kölderer (around 1470–1540) are just a few examples of the countless painters from that era. Between the Gothic and the Renaissance periods (from roughly 1500), Tyrol experienced a period of prosperity under Emperor Maximilian I, who gave his name to the Maximilian transitional style. This can be seen for example in Tratzberg Castle, the Golden Roof, countless town houses and the Court Church (“Hofkirche”) in Innsbruck (1553–1563), the cloister of the Franciscan monastery in Schwaz, as well as various small artworks and handicrafts (for example the St. George’s altar in Ambras Castle). The most significant Renaissance building in Tyrol is Ambras Castle (1564–1583).

The new zeitgeist of the Baroque era in the 17th and 18th centuries brought with it the modernization of countless churches and houses in the new Baroque style, alongside the construction of new buildings. Members of the Gumpp family were renowned builders at the time. In Innsbruck, Christoph Gumpp (1600–1672) was responsible for structures including the Mariahilfkirche church, the Comödienhaus which stood where the Congress stands today, and the new construction of the Wilten monastery and collegiate church. His son, Johann Martin Gumpp the Elder (1643–1729) erected the hospital church and the former Ursuline Church, alongside numerous residences in Innsbruck, including the Ferraripalais and Taxispalais. His son, Georg Anton Gumpp (1682–1754) left behind him the Altes Landhaus and St. John’s (“Johanneskirche”) church in Innsbruck, and converted the Stams Abbey. Georg’s brother Johann Martin Gumpp the Younger (1686–1765) began with the conversion of Innsbruck’s Imperial Palace. In addition to this, Tyrol produced many other master builders, including the priest and amateur master builder Franz de Paula Penz (1707–1772, church in Neustift in the Stubaital valley, Wilten Abbey Basilica, etc.), Franz Singer (1724–1789, Götzens, Ranggen, Unterperfuss parish churches, etc.) and Abraham Millauer (1680–1758, Ebbs parish church) to name but a few. Jakob Prandtauer (1660–1726), born in Grins near Landeck, is considered one of Austria’s most important Baroque architects. He was responsible for Melk Abbey in Lower Austria, as well as parts of Kremsmünster Abbey and St. Florian Monastery in Upper Austria.

The Tyrolean Oberland in particular produced many skilled painters and sculptors, who were unable to find work in their homeland and therefore left their marks in other Austrian states, as well as neighboring southern Germany and Switzerland. Tyrol’s most famous painters have included Anton Zoller (1695–1768) from Telfs, and members of the Zeiller family from the Reutte District. Steinach-born painter Martin Knoller (1725–1804) left behind him numerous altarpieces and frescoes in Anras parish church, the monastery church of St. Charles Borromeo (“Klosterkirche zum Heiligen Karl Borromäus”) near Volders and in the Paris hall of the Taxispalais in Innsbruck. Sculptor Matthias Bernhard Braun (1684–1738) from Sautens in the Ötztal valley produced statues including those on the Charles Bridge in Prague. As a form of folk art, Baroque found its way to the most remote valleys in the state. Local artists created altars, statues, paintings and countless other handicrafts and small pieces of art. The painter Joseph Anton Koch (1768–1839) from the district of Reutte, who settled in Rome and subscribed to the Classicism and Romanticism styles, was famed far beyond the borders of Tyrol. During the 19th century, Historicism was widely popular. Churches were converted to this style, while others were newly built according to it. At the same time, past styles were taken up again and interpreted anew. The result was churches in the neo-Gothic and neo-Romanesque style, while numerous town houses in Innsbruck exhibit the Baroque Revival style.

CHRONOLOGY

An outline of Tyrol’s history

30,000 BC	The first traces of human settlement (Tischofer Cave near Kufstein)
ca. 5000	The lifetime of Ötzi,
years ago	the Iceman
15/14 BC	The alpine countries were conquered by the Roman generals Drusus and Tiberius
6^th/7^th centuries	Migration (Völkerwanderung) – invasion of the Bavarians, Slavs and Alemanni
11^th century	Bishops from Brixen and Trento become territorial lords (“Landesherren”)
12^th century	Rise of the Counts from Tyrol and Andechs
1180	Establishment of Innsbruck by the Counts of Andechs
1248	Core of today’s Tyrol is in the hands of the Counts of Tyrol for the first time
1238–1295	Count Meinhard II – expansion of Tyrol, promotion of trade and commerce
1363	Under Countess Margarete Maultasch, Tyrol passes to the Habsburg Duke Rudolf IV
ca. 1410	successfull mining for silver and copper begins in Schwaz
1420	Duke Frederick IV of the Empty Pockets choses Innsbruck as the seat of government
1490–1519	Emperor Maximilian I – Tyrolean heyday (around 1500 Golden Roof)
1525	The Great Peasants’ War – influence of the teachings of Martin Luther
2^nd h. 16^th century	Renaissance – reign of Archduke Ferdinand II – construction of Ambras Castle (Schloss Ambras)
17^th century	Archduke Maximilian III the Grand Master of the Teutonic Knights–Archduke Leopold V – Claudia de’ Medici – influence of Italian art and culture –Jesuit Church (“Jesuitenkirche”) –Leopold Fountain (“Leopoldbrunnen”)
1665	End of the Tyrolean line of the House of Habsburg
1669	Foundation of the University of Innsbruck
1703	The Bavarian Rummel – invasion of the Bavarians – St. Anne’s Column (“Annasäule”)
1765	Maria Theresa in Innsbruck – wedding of her son Leopold to the Spanish princess Maria Ludovica – Triumphal Arch (“Triumphpforte”) and Imperial Palace (“Hofburg”)
1805–1814	Tyrol under Bavarian rule – Napoleonic campaign of conquest – 1809 four battles at Bergisel hill with Andreas Hofer as commander
19^th century	Start of tourism – construction of the railways – industrialization
1914–1918	First World War
1919	After the end of the First World War, division of Tyrol (South Tyrol to Italy, North and East Tyrol to Austria)
1939–1945	Second World War – Tyrol/Austria as part of the German Reich
1945–1955	After the end of the Second World War, France as occupying power in Tyrol
1955	Treaty – freedom of Austria – reconstruction
1964	Winter Olympics in Innsbruck – the Diocese of Innsbruck is established
1976	Winter Olympics in Innsbruck
1998	The Tyrol–South Tyrol–Trentino Euroregion is formed
2008	Innsbruck is one of the venues of the European Football Championship
2012	The first Winter Youth Olympic Games are held in Innsbruck and Seefeld.
2013	After the state elections in April, Tyrol elects a coalition of the ÖVP (Austrian People’s Party) and Green Party for the first time since the Second World War.
2018	The UCI Road World Championships are held in Tyrol for the first time.

One subscriber to Romanticism was East Tyrolean painter Franz von Defregger (1835–1921) with his historical, landscape and decorative pieces, who had a strong influence on Albin Egger-Lienz (1868–1926). However, Egger-Lienz heavily embodied the spirit of symbolism and expressionism already. The 20th century also produced important artists. As a painter, Alfons Walde (1891–1958) selected similar subjects to Albin Egger-Lienz, and as an architect he designed the stations of Kitzbühel’s Hahnenkammbahn cable car. The architect Clemens Holzmeister (1886–1926) from Fulpmes in the Stubaital valley gained an international reputation for his work including the festival halls in Salzburg, the parish churches of Pertisau, Erpfendorf, Allerheiligen in Innsbruck and Bruckhäusl near Wörgl, and also left his mark in Ankara. Also famed beyond the state’s borders are the painter Max Weiler (1910–2001) and illustrator Paul Flora (1922–2009).

FORTRESSES, RUINS AND CASTLES IN TYROL

Tyrol is richly studded with fortresses, castles, ruins and manors, which are tightly connected with the history of the region. These structures are landmarks of our cultural landscape. Castles are typical medieval buildings that are designed with security and defense in mind. Essentially, these are habitable fortifications. They are always built on rock formations and hills, and are surrounded on at least three sides by steep terrain. The structure is usually accessed on one side by a reinforced entrance. Such buildings are referred to as elevated castles. Examples of these include the Rottenburg Castle above Rotholz near Jenbach, and Petersberg Castle near Silz.

Tyrol has very few castles directly in the valley. Lichtwerth Castle near Brixlegg sits on a low hill on the valley floor, and the Inn river surrounded it at one time and it was therefore a moated castle. The most important parts of a castle that are seen most often are the outer bailey and main castle with crenelated walls, tower gates and drawbridges, various courtyards, the keep (“Bergfried”) as the highest and most heavily fortified tower, the great hall as living quarters, the bower as family’s personal living quarters, kitchen, chapel, spiral staircases, courtroom, prison, armories, stables, farm buildings, workshops, and more besides. The Tyrolean sovereigns (“Landesfürsten”) had these fortifications built to protect the land. However, numerous fortresses can also be traced back to the ministers (inferior nobles who served the sovereigns). They were granted ownership of the land by the sovereign, which they then cultivated and defended with the help of the farmers.

As a result of this, many castles resulted from disputes between the ministers or with their sovereigns. Over the course of history castles fulfilled a wide range of tasks, such as monitoring important traffic routes, for example the Inntal Valley. From them, it was easy to monitor narrow points, valley incisions, rivers, etc. Many of these former routes have now disappeared. Today, Klamm Castle on the Mieming Plateau stands abandoned, although it once protected the salt road from the Inntal Valley in the direction of the Fern Pass. Castles were often the seat of the jurisdiction, represented by the authority of a judge and jurist. The supreme judge was safe here, and it was also home to the jail. Important documents, archives and money were stored here, and the ruler could also find accommodation here.

Castles also served as bases for hunting trips (for example under Emperor Maximilian I). It was for precisely this reason that Archduke Sigismund the Rich in Coin had many castles constructed, such as Sigmundslust near Vomp, Sigmundsburg on Lake Fernstein and Sigmundsried in the Oberinntal valley. Castles stood for prosperity, wealth and power, although they were also often centers for music, literature, and fine arts, for example the ‘Minne’ singers and the decoration of many fortresses with paintings.

Schrofenstein Castle near Landeck

The transition from fortress to castle took place around 1500, during the time of Emperor Maximilian I. A great example of this is Tratzberg Castle, which was destroyed by a fire around 1500 and was subsequently rebuilt as a castle. When weaponry became increasingly advanced, the significance of castles waned. Castles increasingly became prestigious residences of the nobility. A clearly discernible difference between a castle in the sense of a “Burg” and a castle in the sense of a “Schloss” or “château” is the heightened demand in the latter for more comfortable living and a greater desire to display wealth and status, as well as the regularity of the layout (in contrast to the former with its rather disjointed and incoherently linked structures) and the organization of the facade.

In the 16th century, fortresses were built with broad earth walls that could withstand the new weaponry. Examples can be found in northern Italy. Only one such structure can still be found in North Tyrol, the Kufstein Fortress. The others were abandoned under Holy Roman Emperor Joseph II. These included the once mighty Ehrenberg Fortress on the southern edge of the Reutte basin. Fortresses were usually broad and low, with round towers (turrets) and polygonal defense installations.

Of major importance were precise calculations of the canon trajectories and a small offensive area for attacking foes. It was intended that as few soldiers as possible could defend a fortress from a large superior force over an extended period of time. A number of barriers at the end of valleys (“Klausen”) in the 16th and 17th century also exhibited a fortification-like character, for example the Lienzer Klause. Smaller manors were also constructed in Tyrol from the Renaissance period, often serving as comfortable residences for various courtiers. Examples of these include Aschach near Volders, as well as Büchsenhausen and the Weiherburg.

CHAPTER 2

INNSBRUCK

At the heart of Tyrolx

The state capital (132,493 inhabitants) lies in a broad basin at the mouth of the Sill as it flows into the Inn river, roughly at the center of Tyrol. The limestone Karwendel mountain range with the striking Nordkette (Seegrube 1905 m, Hafelekar 2256 m), rises up to the north, while the central Alps to the south give the city its widely visible “landmark peaks”: The Patscherkofel (2246 m) and Serles (2717 m).

HISTORY

When Ambras Castle was destroyed by the south Bavarian Counts of Andechs in 1133, they established the settlement of Anbruggen – which later became Innsbruck – on the north side of the Inn river, in the area where you can find the districts of St. Nikolaus and Mariahilf today and a bridge was built. 1180 was the year in which Innsbruck was founded, at that time also the old town, encircled by town walls and a moat, was built. This was the point at which the roads from the Lower Inntal valley and Upper Inntal valley came together and led onwards together in the direction of Brenner pass and Italy. This route was particularly important because it lead to the port of Venice therefore represented a connection with Asia.

1281 witnessed the construction of the new town (what is now Maria-Theresien-Straße). In 1363, Countess Margarete Maultasch passed Tyrol to the Habsburg Duke Rudolf IV. This brought with it a Tyrolean line of the House of Habsburg. In 1420, Duke Frederick IV of the Empty Pockets moved the seat of government from Merano to Innsbruck. He and his son Archduke Sigismund the Rich in Coin largely shaped the 15th century, whilst Kaiser Maximilian I shaped the decades around 1500. Emperor Maximilian I loved to stay in Tyrol. He commissioned the construction of the Golden Roof, had countless old town houses converted, and transformed Innsbruck into a center of the Habsburg Empire as the seat of important authorities. The Court Church recalls him in particular, which was constructed by his grandson Emperor Ferdinand I. Maximilian was buried in St. George’s Chapel in Wiener Neustadt.

Innsbruck was consistently a center for art and culture under the rulers that followed. Archduke Ferdinand II married Philippine Welser from a modest Augsburg family and had Ambras Castle upgraded and developed into an impressive Renaissance residence. The unmarried Archduke Maximilian III the Grand Master belonged to the Teutonic Knights and did much for the religious life of the state. His tomb lies in the left transept of Innsbruck Cathedral. It was during the reign of Archduke Leopold V and his Italian wife Claudia de’ Medici that court life flourished under Italian influence. The end of the Tyrolean line of the House of Habsburg came with the death of Archduke Sigismund Francis, in 1665. During the Spanish war of succession the Bavarians, allied with the French, invaded Tyrol in 1703 and were driven out again during the same year, on St. Anne’s day (July 26). St. Anne’s Column on Maria-Theresien-Straße commemorates this day.

In 1765, Maria Theresa traveled to Innsbruck to attend the marriage of her son Archduke Leopold to the Spanish princess Maria Ludovica. Reminiscent of Maria Theresa are today’s Imperial Palace in the Rococo style, the noble ladies’ chapter (“Adeliges Damenstift”) and the Triumphal Arch. When Napoleon successfully conquered Austria, the people of Tyrol rose up against the occupying forces in 1809 under the leadership of Andreas Hofer. The Tyrolean people succeeded in winning three of the four Battles of Bergisel. They lost the decisive fourth battle. Andreas Hofer was executed in Mantua in 1810 and his remains were later moved to the Court Church in Innsbruck.

The 19th century was characterized by the age of industry, the construction of the railways, town expansions and the development of Tyrol into a center for tourism. In 1849, Innsbruck replaced Merano as the state capital. In 1919, after the First World War, Tyrol was split into two regions: North and East Tyrol remained part of Austria, while South Tyrol and Trentino (Welsch Tyrol) became part of Italy. The beginning of the century witnessed the construction of the Hungerburgbahn funicular railway, the Nordkette and Patscherkofel cable cars as means of ascent for tourists. The period following the Second World War was characterized in particular by clearance of the bomb damage in the town and the new construction of large residential areas (Reichenau, Sadrach, Sieglanger and others). In 1964 and 1976 Innsbruck twice played host to the Winter Olympics, and in 1964 Innsbruck became home to its own diocese. In recent years, countless significant buildings have been constructed: the SOWI faculty in the city center, the ski jump on the Bergisel and the Hungerburgbahn (both in accordance with plans by Zaha Hadid), the Rathausgalerien containing the town hall and shops in Maria-Theresien-Straße by Dominique Perrault, the Landhaus 2 administrative building, the railway station, the BTV city forum, the new Kaufhaus Tyrol shopping center in Maria-Theresien-Straße and a new Bergisel Museum.

TYROL

Contents

INTRODUCTION

TIROL

So much to see – so much to do

CHAPTER 1

AN OUTLINE OF TYROL

History, art, culture and much more

GEOGRAPHY

CLIMATE

ART

CHRONOLOGY

An outline of Tyrol’s history

FORTRESSES, RUINS AND CASTLES IN TYROL

CHAPTER 2

INNSBRUCK

At the heart of Tyrolx

HISTORY