cover

Cover

Title Page

Introduction

BREAD, PASTA, RICE & COUSCOUS

Focaccia with Caramelised Red Onions

FOCACCIA CON CIPOLLE ROSSE CARAMELLATE

Ciabatta

Roman-style Pizza Bianca

PIZZA BIANCA

Fresh Fig and Prosciutto Panino

PANINO CON FICHI FRESCHI E PROSCIUTTO

Bucatini with Amatriciana Sauce

BUCATINI ALL’AMATRICIANA

Fettuccine with Porcini and Hazelnuts

FETTUCCINE CON PORCINI E NOCCIOLE

Linguine Primavera

Spaghetti with Fruits of the Sea

SPAGHETTI AI FRUTTI DI MARE

Farfalle with Red Pepper Sauce

FARFALLE CON SALSA DI PEPERONI ROSSI

Orecchiette with Fennel Sausages and Broccoli

ORECCHIETTE CON SALSA BARESE

Spaghetti with Garlic and Olive Oil

SPAGHETTI ALL’ AGLIO E OLIO

Neapolitan Christmas Eve Spaghetti with Walnuts

U SPAGHETT’ ANATALINA

Cheesy Macaroni Bake

PASTICCIO DI MACCHERONI

Orzo and Chicken Bake

PASTICCIO DI ORZO E POLLO

Rigatoni alla Vesuviana

Pappardelle with Ragù

PAPPARDELLE AL RAGÙ

Linguine with Fennel and Pine Nuts

LINGUINE CON FINOCCHI E PINOLI

Ricotta and Spinach Lasagne Rolls with Tomato Sauce

CANNELLONI DI RICOTTA E SPINACI CON SALSA DI POMODORO

Bucatini with Aubergine and Tuna

BUCATINI ALLE MELANZANE E TONNO

Seafood Lasagne

LASAGNA AI FRUTTI DI MARE

Spaghetti with Roast Tomatoes and Sage

SPAGHETTI CON POMODORI AL FORNO E SALVIA

Ligurian Pasta with Pesto and Green Beans

TROFIE AL PESTO E FAGIOLINI

Roast Pumpkin and Red Pepper Cannelloni

CANNELLONI CON ZUCCA E PEPERONI

Pancetta and Pesto Risotto

RISOTTO CON PANCETTA E PESTO

Oven-baked Mushroom Risotto

RISOTTO AI FUNGHI AL FORNO

Asparagus and Pear Risotto

RISOTTO CON ASPARAGI E PERE

Polenta Gnocchi with Basil Pesto

GNOCCHI DI POLENTA CON PESTO

Couscous with Saffron

COUSCOUS ALLO ZAFFERANO

Farro and Tomato Salad

INSALATA DI FARRO E POMODORO

Parmesan Polenta Chips

PATATINE DI POLENTA CON PARMIGIANO

FRUIT

Summer Berries with Maple Zabaglione

BACCHE ESTIVE CON ZABAGLIONE

Fresh Fig Ice Cream

GELATO DI FICHI

Fruit Granita

GRANITA DI FRUTTA

Plum and Chianti Compote with Ginger

PRUGNE AL CHIANTI E ZENZERO

Roasted Rhubarb and Strawberries with Basil Syrup

RABARBARO ARROSTO E FRAGOLE CON SCIROPPO DI BASILICO

Poached Nectarine, Peach and Fig Salad with Lemon and Pistachios

PESCHENOCI, PESCHE E FICHI COTTI CON LIMONE E PISTACCHI

Orange and Melon Salad with Raspberry Sauce

MACEDONIA DI ARANCIA E MELONE CON SALSA DI LAMPONI

NUTS, BEANS & LEGUMES

Bean Soup

ZUPPA DI FAGIOLI

Green Beans with Sesame Seeds

FAGIOLINI CON SEMI DI SESAMO

Pesto Genovese

Beans with Italian Sausages

FAGIOLI CON SALSICCE ITALIANE

Broad Bean Hummus

CREMA DI FAVE

Creamy Pennette with Walnuts

PENNETTE CREMOSE ALLE NOCI

Green and White Bean Salad

INSALATA DI FAGIOLINI E FAGIOLI

Green Olive and Hazelnut Pesto

PESTO ALLE OLIVE VERDI E NOCCIOLE

VEGETABLES & SALADS

Artichoke, Roast Parsnip and Walnut Salad

INSALATA DI CARCIOFI, PASTINACHE ARROSTITE E NOCI

Asparagus with Pistachio Orange Dressing

ASPARAGI CON SALSA DI PISTACCHIO E ARANCIO

Butternut Squash, Red Onion and Spinach Salad with a Sesame Dressing

INSALATA DI ZUCCA, CIPOLLE ROSSE E SPINACI CON UNA SALSA DI SESAMO

Fennel Purée

PUREA DI FINOCCHIO

Chargrilled Summer Vegetables with Chilli Basil Dressing

VERDURE GRIGLIATE CON SALSA PICCANTE E BASILICO

Field Mushrooms Stuffed with Bacon and Spinach

FUNGHI RIPIENI DL PANCETTA E SPINACI

Pumpkin Mostarda

MOSTARDA DI ZUCCA

Parmesan Mashed Potatoes

PUREA AL PARMIGIANO

Poor People’s Potatoes

PATATE DEI POVERI

Purple Sprouting Broccoli with Watercress Mayonnaise

BROCCOLETTI CON MAIONESE AL CRESCIONE

Tomato Fennel Soup

ZUPPA DI POMODORO E FINOCCHIO

Wild Garlic and Rocket Soup

ZUPPA DI AGLIO SELVATICO E RUCOLA

Warm Radicchio, Spinach and Basil Salad

INSALATA DI RADICCHIO CALDI, SPINACI E BASILICO

Zucchini Stuffed with Ragù

ZUCCHINE RIPIENE AL RAGÙ

OLIVES & OLIVE OIL

Citrus-marinated Olives

OLIVE MARINATE AGLI AGRUMI

Chilli Olive Oil

OLIO D’OLIVA AL PEPERONCINO

Rosemary and Garlic Olive Oil

OLIO D’OLIVA AL ROSMARINO ED AGLIO

Olive Oil Ice Cream

GELATO ALL’OLIO D’OLIVA

CHEESE, YOGHURT & EGGS

Blackberry and Raspberry Yoghurt Ice Cream

GELATO ALLO YOGURT DI MORE E LAMPONI

Watercress and Hazelnut Crumbed Goats Cheese Salad

INSALATA DI ORESCIONE, NOCCIOLE E FORMAGGIO DI CAPRA

Eggs Soffritto

UOVA AL FORNO CON VERDURE

Poached Apples Stuffed with Gorgonzola

MELE IN CAMICIA RIPIENE DI GORGONZOLA

Broad Bean and Pecorino Salad

INSALATA DI FAVE E PECORINO

Sorrel Flan

CROSTATA DI ACETOSELLA

FISH & SHELLFISH

Chargrilled Dublin Bay Prawns

GAMBERONI ALLA GRIGLIA

Cod with Salmoriglio

MERLUZZO CON SALMORIGLIO

Swordfish with Chilli and Orange

PESCE SPADA CON PEPERONCINO E ARANCIA

Scallops with Prosciutto and Balsamic Glaze

CAPESANTE CON PROSCIUTTO E CREMA BALSAMICA

Seafood Stew

ZUPPA DI FRUTTI DI MARE

Whole Baked Sea Bass with a Red Pepper and Fennel Sauce

SPIGOLA AL FORNO CON SALSA DI PEPERONI E FINOCCHI

Tuna with White Beans and Artichokes

TONNO CON FAGIOLI E CARCIOFI

POULTRY & MEAT

Mixed Antipasto Platter

ANTIPASTO MISTO

Supreme of Chicken with Rocket and Parmesan Stuffing

POLLO RIPIENO DI RUCOLA E PARMIGIANO

Chicken with Prosecco and Shallots

POLLO CON PROSECCO E SCALOGNO

Pancetta-wrapped Chicken Thighs with Mozzarella Stuffing

COSCE DI POLLO AVVOLTI IN PANCETTA CON RIPIENO DI MOZZARELLA

Spatchcock Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic

POLLO ALLA DIAVOLA CON 40 SPICCHI DI AGLIO

Date and Hazelnut Stuffed Pork Tenderloin

FILETTO DI MAIALE RIPIENO DI DATTERI E NOCCIOLE

Italian Wedding Soup

ZUPPA NUZIALE

Spare Ribs with Polenta Chips

COSTINE CON PATATINE DI POLENTA

Herb-wrapped Fillet of Beef with Wild Mushroom Sauce

FILETTO DI MANZO AVVOLTO NELLE ERBE CON SALSA DI FUNGHI SELVATICI

Lamb Stew with Lemon and Olives

SPEZZATINO DI AGNELLO CON LIMONE E OLIVE

Pistachio and Fig Crusted Rack of Lamb with Tapenade

CARRÈ DI AGNELLO IN CROSTA DI PISTACCHI E FICHI CON TAPENADE

SWEETS

Almond Cake

TORTA DI MANDORLE

Chocolate Breadcrumb and Almond Cake

TORTA DI CIOCCOLATO, PANGRATTATO E MANDORLE

Chocolate Ricotta Tart

TORTA DI RICOTTA AL CIOCCOLATO

Fresh Fruit Tart

CROSTATA DI FRUTTA FRESCA

Lemon and Panettone Trifle

ZUPPA INGLESE DI LIMONE E PANETTONE

Grandma’s Pine Nut Custard Pie

TORTE DELLA NONNA

Hazelnut Cake with Orange Cinnamon Topping

TORTE DI NOCCIOLE

Panettone

Panforte di Siena

Torrone

Pistachio and Orange Cake

TORTA AL PISTACHIO E ARANCIA

White Chocolate and Walnut Cream Cups

COPPE DI CIOCCOLATO BIANCO E CREMA DI NOCI

DRINKS

Grapefruit and Vodka Cocktail

COCKTAIL DI POMPELMO E VODKA

Lavender Lemonade

LIMONATA AL GUSTO DI LAVANDA

Walnut Liqueur

NOCINO

My Favourite Italian Wines

 

Dedication & Acknowledgements

Copyright page

About the Author

About Gill & Macmillan

Italian culture has had an enormous influence on the world, from artists such as Michelangelo and Caravaggio to creators such as Da Vinci and Marconi, from style icons such as Armani and Dolce & Gabbana to movie stars such as Sophia Loren and Rudolph Valentino, from Vespa to Ferrari and from Vivaldi to Verdi. But the greatest Italian culture is the food culture. It is the anchor that binds the people and their communities.

Food defines the Italian people. It comes as no surprise that the Slow Food movement was started in Italy, where ‘fast food’ does not exist – all food is to be savoured and enjoyed, especially in the company of friends and family.

There are many things that intrigue me about Italian food culture. How do they have time for all this food? Why do they have such strict rules and routine around food? With long, leisurely lunches, dishes of pasta richly coated in sauces, pizzas laden with mozzarella and glugs of olive oil, how is it that Italy is one of the slimmest nations in Europe? And most importantly, how can we enjoy these delicious recipes and savour some of la dolce vita here at home? That is what this book is about.

Let me tell you a story about Italian lifestyle and food. It’s a beautiful summer evening and I’m out shopping in our local town of Balestrate in Sicily. A new furniture shop has just opened up in the town square and I have a long look in the window. As I expected, the shop is beautifully laid out with all the elegance of Italian interior style. My eye catches a fabulous mahogany dining table and matching chairs, fully dressed with the best glassware and china.

Imagine my surprise when just after 8 p.m., when the shops close, I pass again and I stop in shock, as the table I had just admired was now fully complete with diners. The staff had locked the doors and sat down to enjoy this magnificent table by having a meal together in the shop window, totally oblivious to life beyond their own company and their enjoyment of their meal.

Then it dawned on me. This is Italy, where people live to eat, not eat to live. The more I considered this fact, the more clarity I got. I’d seen for myself that work stops when friends arrive – unplanned departures are made from offices in favour of the local coffee shop and work continues thereafter, until another friend or family member arrives. In other words, work fits around life and not life around work. And that’s logical, since offices open at around 8 a.m. and close at 8 p.m., so work has to fit around life. It’s frowned upon to talk business over lunch. Eating is about the company, the food, the laughter, chatter and sheer pleasure and should not be soured by discussions of work.

In order to eat like an Italian, we need to recondition ourselves to live like Italians. It might seem a little stressful to fit into our lifestyle of long commutes to and from work, college and kids. We all have such full days, but then, so do the Italians. As a family here in Wicklow, we make a point of sitting down and breaking bread together. It would be idyllic to do this every day, but realistically, we insist on four days together every week and include our extended family and friends in this too.

One thing I’ve learned is that work has to fit around life. I struggled for years trying to separate work from my life, but I constantly felt guilty about not spending enough time with my family. I realised that this was leading me nowhere and now I relax into work and prioritise life and it feels very empowering.

 

ITALIAN FOOD CULTURE: SHOPPING AND INGREDIENTS

Locally sourced food is the backbone of Italian food. Recipes are regional too and it’s unusual for people to cook non-regional dishes, especially for family gatherings, otherwise there might be a grandmother or two who would pass comment!

In Balestrate, our local town, it’s not uncommon for the women to shop for ingredients twice per day – for lunch and for dinner. Now that really is the epitome of freshness! It’s also common for the farmers to drive through the towns in their three-wheeled scooter trucks laden with produce from their farms, shouting their arrival through the loudspeaker positioned atop the van. The ladies purchase from their balconies by lowering a basket on a rope to collect the fresh melons, tomatoes, oranges and lemons. Shopping is also a social occasion to meet other locals and a chance to get daily exercise. I understand that this probably isn’t an option for most of us, but buying local, fresh produce where possible and even growing your own in little pots or plots is something to aim for.

As you travel through Italy, you learn very quickly that everyone has a passion for food and also has a strong opinion about where the best recipe or ingredient can be sourced. A few years back, our car broke down near Pachino, which is the famous tomato-producing area of Italy. The Pachino tomatoes are cherry-like, sweet and irresistible. We had to get the car towed back to Catania airport and arrange a replacement, and it was a long three hours once the driver realised my interest in food! He spent the journey telling me that Pachino tomatoes weren’t the best in Italy, but that actually the ones from his village were. Next to come was his opinion on olive oil, oranges, grapes, lemons ... I couldn’t get a word in edgeways, which is unusual for me! But it is this passion and inquisitiveness about food that drives the Italians to create the best dishes. There is a lesson here.

MEALTIMES AND MEALS

Breakfast usually consists of a cappuccino and a brioche or bread with butter and/or some local jam. In Sicily in the summer, brioche and granita (a flavoured iced drink which might be coffee flavoured) is most common, as it is considered too hot to sip a cappuccino.

Lunch is the main meal of the day and is usually somewhere between 12 and 1 p.m. In fact, the restaurants stop serving at around 2.30 p.m., as people stick rigidly to mealtimes and demand outside of this is unheard of, unless by tourists.

A two-course lunch is most common midweek, but Sunday lunch is a major meal and involves the extended family. It’s customary for family members to bring a gift of a cooked dish and the preparations for sunday lunch commence the day before.

A typical meal would start with l’antipasto – perhaps olives, local cured meats, cheeses and bread.

This is followed by il primo, which is the pasta or rice course. Pasta servings are smaller than we might think, as there are still many more courses to follow.

Il secondo is the meat or fish course. As meat or fish might not be eaten every day, this is a special course. After this comes il contoro – the side dish. Contori are always vegetables in season and often salads. Secondi are usually eaten first, then contori. A side dish that I really enjoyed at Sunday lunch in the Fulvio household in Palermo was a simple raw fennel bulb, which was passed around the table and we each pulled a layer off and chewed it. It was so refreshing after the fish course. Then fresh fruit platters arrive – again, always whatever is in season, followed by dried nuts and fruits in the winter (dried figs and dates are especially delicious).

After that, coffee is made and il dolce – a cake from the local bakery – is produced. A pistachio and lemon sponge cake with a sweet ricotta filling was one of the most delicious I’ve ever had. And finally, out come the chocolates and the ammazzacaffè, which means ‘coffee-killer’, a liqueur, which could be anything from homemade nocino (walnut liqueur) to limoncello.

All of this is often followed by a promenade in one’s Sunday best clothes – a lovely gentle stroll through the town or countryside, meeting other locals along the way. After all, seven courses requires a stretching of the body, and it feels so much better after a large meal than collapsing on the sofa in front of the television! Exercise is simply integrated into the Italians’ day, whether it’s walking to school or the shops, promenading after a large lunch or dancing in the evening.

Dinner is at 8 p.m. and is really more like supper. It’s a much lighter meal, usually only one course, and might be made up of the leftovers from lunch.

Drinks with meals consist of wine and water, or maybe a beer with pizza. Children are allowed a soft drink (generally not milk, as that is deemed to affect the flavours of the food and digestion). We enjoy a similar routine to this for our family mealtimes, especially the large family gatherings on a Sunday. It’s a time to catch up and chat, and when I think about it, it’s not unlike the lifestyle of my parents and grandparents years ago – except I recall that my granddad always drank tea brimming with milk and sugar with his main course. I wonder what the Italians would think of that?

 

THE MEDITERRANEAN AND ITALIAN DIET

Recognised by UNESCO, the Mediterranean diet is arguably the healthiest diet in the world.

The inclusion of daily recommended amounts of olive oil, beans, nuts and legumes in the Mediterranean diet is in clear contrast to our diet, where we don’t include many of these. In Italy, red meat is eaten in smaller quantities, while fish is the more popular protein. Not surprisingly, the quantity of carbohydrates consumed in Italy on a daily basis exceeds ours. Wine, noted ‘in moderation’, is a recognised part of the diet.

The Mediterranean and Italian diet is characterised by a nutritional model (above), that comprises fresh seasonal ingredients, an abundance of cereals, fresh fruits and vegetables, generous amounts of olive oil, pulses and nuts and moderate amounts of fish and meats. UNESCO also recognised that this diet encompasses more than just food – it promotes social interaction, thereby giving full credit to the lifestyle. In my opinion, the Italian diet and approach to food is the solution to long-lasting health and happiness, so I have structured this book by each section of the food pyramid. Just try to eat a few more from the Vegetables and Salads chapter and a few less from the Sweets chapter!

It’s pretty realistic for everyone to embrace this lifestyle and food culture by enjoying our very own local, seasonally fresh produce, prioritising our mealtimes by making them routine and including our friends and family, taking daily exercise and a drink in moderation.

I hope you enjoy these recipes from Italy, then relax and savour the wonderful flavours of freshly prepared food while enjoying the company of others. It is the recipe for a good life.

CARBOHYDRATES

While we’re all warned to cut the carbs, the Italians relish in them – and in their slimness! It just doesn’t seem fair. What’s evident to me is the Italian approach to ‘everything in moderation’. Their carb portions are definitely smaller than ours and ‘stop when you are full’ is also an Italian mantra ... but sometimes it just tastes so good!

For Italians, carbs incorporate bread, pasta, rice, polenta and couscous. As with all things Italian, there are strong regional differences. For example, couscous is a staple in Sicily, whereas polenta is in the north. Even the type of flour used in the bread differs, from the durum wheat in the south to the grano tenero or even chestnut flour in the north.

 

BREAD

Bread-making is a serious business, with many types having been awarded DOP status (Denominazione di origine protetta, or protected designation of origin) by the EU. DOP status protects the names of regional foods and strictly outlines how they must be made. One of my favourite DOP breads is the Pane di Altamura from the province of Bari in Puglia. Golden in colour, it has a wonderful chewy crust (which must be 3mm thick, by the way).

Breads vary from region to region and there are over 350 recognised types of bread. The local panificio will produce regional breads, pizza sold in slices and focaccia and may also make sandwiches (panini). Bread is usually sold by weight.

Solina, our friend and local baker in Sicily, runs Panificio Testagrossa, where she produces the most delicious sfincione once a week. The queues build up down the street in anticipation of the delicious, thick, pizza-like bread coming out of the oven and it sells out within minutes. She also makes lots of biscotti, many using almonds or coconut as a base, and in the late autumn she makes the amazing traditional marzipan fruit, which is an enormous amount of work but very popular as Christmas gifts.

I particularly like the Pane Siciliano, which is made with yellow durum wheat flour. A family favourite is Roman pizza, especially pizza bianca, which can be turned into a delicious sandwich with prosciutto and cheese.

Fare la scarpetta’ is usually heard when any pasta sauce remains on the plate. There is no direct English translation, but it broadly means ‘to do the little shoe’ –