This book is one of the series of handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Co. Like the magazine, these books are "written so you can understand it," and are intended to furnish information on mechanical subjects at a price within the reach of all.
The texts and illustrations have been prepared expressly for this Handbook Series, by experts; are up-to-date, and have been revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.
The dimensions given in the stock list contained in the description of each piece of furniture illustrated in this book call for material mill-planed, sanded and cut to length. If the workman desires to have a complete home-made article, allowance must be made in the dimensions for planing and squaring the pieces. S-4-S and S-2-S are abbreviations for surface four sides and surface two sides.
Finished Buffet
Details of Buffet
The accompanying sketch and detail drawing show a design of a buffet wherein refinement of outline and harmony of details are conspicuously regarded. Quarter-sawed oak is the most suitable wood for this handsome piece of mission furniture. The material should be ordered from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Following is a list of the stock needed:
2 back posts, 2 by 2 by 47-3/4 in.
2 front posts, 2 by 2 by 45-1/2 in.
4 rails, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 50-1/2 in.
2 end rails, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 18-1/2 in.
4 end rails, 3/4 by 4 by 18-1/2 in.
4 pieces for end panel, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 21 in.
2 panels, 3/8 by 12 by 21 in.
1 top board, 3/4 by 17-1/2 by 47-1/4 in.
1 back board, 3/4 by 11-1/2 by 47-1/4 in.
1 shelf board, 3/4 by 2 by 46 in.
2 brackets, 1 by 2 by 7-3/4 in.
4 pieces for doors, 3/4 by 4 by 11 in.
2 panels, 3/8 by 11 by 17-1/2 in.
1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 8 by 22-1/2 in.
1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 7-1/2 by 22-1/2 in.
1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 7 by 22-1/2 in.
2 pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
2 pieces, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
2 pieces, 1/2 by 7 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
1 piece, 1/2 by 8 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
1 piece, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
1 piece, 1/2 by 7 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
1 bottom board, 3/4 by 17-1/2 by 47-1/4 in.; soft wood.
2 partitions (several pieces), 3/4 by 20 by 24-3/4 in.
2 front pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 23 in.
2 back pieces. 3/4 by 2 by 23 in.; soft wood.
2 side pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 21-1/2 in.; soft wood.
1 back (several pieces), 3/8 by 25 by 46 in.
1 mirror frame (to suit mirror).
Start to work on the four posts by squaring them up to the proper length in pairs and beveling the tops as shown. Clamp all four pieces on a flat surface with the bottom ends even, then lay out the mortises for the rails and panels on all four pieces at once with a try-square. This insures getting the mortises all the same height. The back posts also have a mortise cut in them at the top for the back board as shown. Lay out the tenons on the ends of the front and back rails in the same manner. Cut them to fit the mortises in the posts, also rabbet the back rails for the backing. Cut tenons on the end rails and rabbet them and the side pieces for the panels.
Lay out the top and bottom boards to the proper size and notch the corners to fit about the posts. These boards are fastened to the 1-1/2-in. square rails with dowels and glue. They can now be glued together and set away to dry. The top board is of oak, and be sure to get the best side up, while the bottom one can be made of soft wood if desired.
The partitions are made of several boards glued together. Be careful to get an oak board on the outer edge. The drawer slides are set into the partitions as shown and are fastened in place with screws from the inside.
The top back board has a tenon on each end that fits into the mortises in the back posts and is rounded at the top as shown. The shelf is also rounded at the ends and is fastened to the back with screws.
A plate glass mirror should be provided for the back. This is fitted to the back board as shown, then the brackets put up at the ends of the mirror frame.
The main parts are now ready to be assembled and glued together. Before applying any glue, see that all the joints fit together perfectly. The end rails and the panels are glued together first and allowed to dry. Be very careful to get the parts clamped together perfectly square and straight, else you will have trouble later on. When these ends are dry slip them on the tenons on the front and back rails which are already fastened to the top and bottom boards.
The back board and the partitions must be in place when this is done. Pin and glue the joints and clamp the whole together square and leave to dry.
The doors are now made by mortising the top and bottom pieces to take the 3/8-in. panel which is glued in place. The drawers are made as shown in the sketch. The front board should be oak, but the remainder can be made of soft wood. The joints are nailed and glued. Suitable hinges for the doors and handles for the drawers should be provided. Antique copper trimmings look very well with this style of furniture and can be secured at most any hardware store.
The back is made of soft wood and is put on in the usual manner. Scrape all surplus glue from about the joints, as stain will not take where there is any glue. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper, then apply the stain you like best. This can be any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.
An easy and at the same time a good way to stain oak in imitation of the fumed effect, is to boil catechu in the proportion of 1/4 lb. to 6 lb. of water, after which cool and strain. Apply this to the wood, and when dry treat with a solution of bichromate of potash in the same proportion as with the catechu. Bichromate of potash alone in water will give a good stain. A solution of 2 oz. of pearl ash and 2 oz. of potash mixed in a quart of water makes a good stain. Potash solution darkens the wood, and when applied very strong will produce an almost ebon hue, due to what we might describe as the burning of the wood fiber.
The hall clock shown in the illustration should be made of plain oak. The following pieces will be needed to make it:
2 back posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 81 in., S-4-S.
2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 21 in., S-4-S.
2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 44 in., S-4-S.
10 front and back horizontals, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 15 in., S-4-S.
10 side horizontals, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 11 in., S-4-S.
1 face, 3/8 by 14 by 14 in., S-4-S.
FRONT DOORS
4 rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 18 in., S-4-S.
4 stiles, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-4-S.
4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 11 in., S-4-S.
4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 11 in., S-4-S.
4 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 15 in., S-4-S.
2 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 15 in., S-4-S.
BACK
1 piece, 3/8 by 14 by 21 in., S-4-S.
2 pieces, 3/8 by 14 by 18 in., S-4-S.
4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 14 in., S-4-S.
4 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 20 in., S-4-S.
TOP SIDE PANELS
2 pieces, 3/8 by 9-1/2 by 14 in., S-4-S.
8 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.
6 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 14 in., S-4-S.
2 middle side panels, 3/4 by 9-1/2 by 20 in., S-2-S.
LOWER SIDE PANELS
8 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 18 in., S-4-S.
8 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 18 in., S-4-S.
8 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.
8 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.
If the worker will take the trouble to combine the different lengths of pieces having like thicknesses and widths into pieces of standard lengths, he will be able to save himself some expense at the mill with no more work for himself.
Begin work by shaping the ends of the posts as indicated in the drawing. Lay out and cut the mortises for the tenons of the horizontals or rails. These mortises need not be deep if the joints are to be reinforced later with lag screws as is the clock shown. They may be what are known as stub tenons and mortises. The tenons are not more than 1/2 in. long, just enough to keep the rail from turning about.
Next lay out and cut the tenons on the rails. Bore the holes for the lag screws, being careful to bore on adjacent surfaces so that the holes will miss each other. Use a 3/8 by 3-in. lag screw, boring the hole in the tenon with a 1/4-in. bit the full depth the screw is to enter.
The side panels should be fitted into grooves in the rails, and before the frame is put together these panels should be squared up and the grooves cut in the rails and posts at the proper places.
Hall Clock Complete
Details of Hall Clock
The mullions of the lower side panels, it will be noted, are specified 5/8 and 3/4 in. wide. The 5/8-in. pieces are for the central parts of the frame and the others for the outside. The frame is to be made 1/8 in. larger all around than the distance between the posts and between the rails so that it may be set in grooves cut in the posts and the rails to a similar depth, 1/8 in. This is true, also, of the mullions of the front doors. Square up the shelves so that they may be set into grooves in the adjacent rails. The middle shelf is to have an overhang and will rest upon the rails.
The mullions of the top side panels are all of the same width, and it is not intended or necessary to set their frame into grooves in the posts. The wood panel back of them gives ample strength.
It is a good plan not to groove the panel upon which the figures are placed, and which becomes the face of the clock. It is better to fit this piece in and fasten metal or wood buttons on the back side so that it can be readily taken off to get at the clock movement from the front.
Make the doors, tenoning the rails into the stiles and grooving both to receive the mullioned framework of 3/16-in. stuff.
Put the whole frame together, using good hot glue for the joints. When the glue has dried sufficiently to allow the clamps to be taken off, fit the doors and hinge them. Butterfly surface hinges look well and are the easiest to apply.
Thoroughly scrape all the surplus glue off and sandpaper the parts preparatory to applying the finish.